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When curating a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee well-known award-winning names. But, tucked prominently among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

This small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. This honour has made the owners utterly shocked.

“I am totally shocked,” remarks the owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ dedication that led to their small place securing such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its earlier character. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the fare, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, toastier and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

The Creed of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel very happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning beyond its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this culinary honour.